Of all new and passing trends, it’s colour that’s the most telling -what the fashion world decides is the shade of the season says a lot about industry mood.So read what you will into A/W’s key colours: rich variations of toffee, caramel and butterscotch.
Before you write them off as boring and dreary, consider this: earthy tones are warmer and more versatile than classically chic navy and black. We don’t want to sound like a food advert, but this is not just any ordinary shade of brown. This season’s incarnations are silky, butter-soft and so very understated that they make Audrey Hepburn look like a sartorial attention seeker.
Let us start with Céline’s show, with its buttermilk silk pleated dresses worn over nude trousers. Then there was The Row’s toffee-coloured leather trench coat; Stella McCartney’s caramel knit dress with ruffle trim; and Proenza Schouler’s wasp-waisted coats in neutral blonde tones.
True, this season’s autumnal shades aren’t the prettiest, but they are imbued with peak elegance and an air of luxury.
The North Star of neutral tones is, after all, the perennially chic camel coat. Think of all the women past and present who love caramel tones: Ali MacGraw, Katharine Hepburn,
Gigi Hadid and Victoria Beckham. They all have understated sophistication nailed.
No, this season’s autumnal neutrals will never top black, but all we ask is that you just give its luxe-enhancing powers a chance.